Saigoneers are spoilt for choice when it comes to Japanese eateries in the city. Dozens, if not hundreds, of sushi, ramen and izakaya spots dot its districts. And if you're in the mood for something special, more obscure delicacies like tsukemen, Tokyo abura soba and Okinawa taco rice are readily available. Over the years, the epicenter of such eateries, especially those run by Japanese owners, has been slowly shifting from the upper stretches of Lê Thánh Tôn to Bình Thạnh District’s Phạm Viết Chánh neighborhood.
This is where an even rarer branch of Japan’s culinary heritage can be enjoyed. Just off the main drag is 蔵 KURA, a dedicated sake bar — pronounced “SAH-keh” in Japanese — helmed by Sana, who originally hails from Nara Prefecture in southeastern Japan. Known colloquially as “the cradle of the Japanese civilization,” it is home to more UNESCO World Heritage sites than any other prefecture in the country. With such a pedigree, it may come as no surprise that it’s also rich in sake traditions.
KURA is a one-woman show, with Sana curating both the sake selections and appetizer-sized dishes in her narrow standing bar establishment, which attracts all types of patrons including Japanese, Vietnamese and westerners who all have their unique sake preferences.
Japanese are generally the most distinguished consumers when it comes to their national alcohol. They are often knowledgeable about sake, having opinions and tastes that were formed over their lifetimes. “Japanese sake lovers who come to my bar know their own favorite taste of sake from different areas in Japan, so they tend to order by flavor,” Sana told Saigoneer. Sometimes this is based on flavor profile, or even simply in line with their home prefecture. For Japanese guests, it’s clear that the comfort and nostalgia of home brings them to KURA.
Sana is deeply proud of her Nara heritage.
Vietnamese who visit are also often familiar with Japan and sake, with many having lived in or visited the country, according to Sana. Similar to Japanese guests, they also make their selections based on personal experience.
Westerners are comparatively visual when it comes to their sake choices. “I see westerners tend to choose by a label or look of a bottle on the first visit — like pointing to a bottle and saying “I like to try that red bottle” or “I will pick this [beautifully labeled] one.” After sampling the inventory, this group starts to get their bearings and narrow down their preferences. “I see they are humbly confident and proud of their own taste buds and senses,” shared Sana.
Have you ever seen this many types of sake in one place?
If guests need a bit of help navigating the extensive offerings, Sana assists by asking questions that help to determine what would be suitable for their palates. “I usually ask them if they prefer “karakuchi” (dry) or “amakuchi” (sweet) taste. If they don’t know what they want, I [would] recommend they try the ones that I select from my favorite sake lines and seasonal ones. When they like it, I am happy too. For beginners, I usually refrain from serving peculiar and strong-tasting sakes.”
Sake is just as diverse as wine or other spirits.
Sana also offers a limited but important food menu that she feels can elevate the overall experience when paired correctly: “At my bar, I usually serve aged foods such as fermented and smoked dishes, because sake is also aged, they create an amazing chemistry in a mouth together.”
A platter of aged snacks accompanies sake sipping.
When at KURA, it feels like Sana has been doing this forever. But like many who follow their passions to build their business, her sake journey was filled with serendipity.
In 2010, Sana was working as a stage photographer in Tokyo, mainly shooting dance, ballets and musicals. This was also the year that Nara was commemorating the 1,300th anniversary of its ascension as the capital of Japan during the Nara Period from 710 to 740, and again from 745 to 784. At the event, sake breweries from around the region held a small tasting event, where she felt a sense of pride for her prefecture’s historic products.
Four years had passed when a business feng shui expert told Sana to go to Vietnam. “Although Vietnam was not on my list of countries I was interested in, she pinpointed it and told me to go to Hồ Chí Minh City. A week later, I met a company that was helping me start a business in Vietnam. After that, good connections continued to draw me smoothly to Hồ Chí Minh City, and before I knew it, I had opened my shop a year later, in 2015, in Lê Thánh Tôn,” she recounted. “At that time Vietnam still didn't have much understanding of sake. I remember I was disappointed that the even proper way to store and preserve sake was completely unknown. I would keep passionately spreading correct ways to have sake in the best condition and the greatness of sake; Japanese masterpieces.”
Since she arrived, much has changed in the scene. Sake is now a more common offering across the city and there's more consumer demand for it than ever. While the robust range of offerings alone makes KURA worth a visit, it’s Sana’s knowledge and passion that have solidified its status as a Hẻm Gem.
KURA is open from 6pm to 11pm.
蔵 KURA
40/28 Phạm Viết Chánh, Ward 19, Bình Thạnh, HCMC
