Bask in the Morning Sun in the Green Heart of Huế Along the Hương River

As tourists, it's in our built-in compass to seek out novelties and excitements, if anything, to remind us that our daily humdrum is not everything, and there exists a world out there with multitudes to explore.

A promenade on the south bank of the Hương River.

Which makes it all the more astonishing to me that I was able to feel immediately at home with the sleepiness of Huế. I guess, in a way, the languid pace of life in the central Vietnam city is a novelty compared to Saigon’s pandemonium.

Built in 1901, the Morin Hotel was one of Vietnam's oldest, and once housed Charlie Chaplin and Empress Nam Phương.

With merely around 1.5 million residents, Huế is the least populous municipality of Vietnam’s six, but what it might lack in adrenaline, it more than makes up for in historical wealth, cultural artifacts, quietude, and breathable urban sprawl.

Hue University of Education on the other side of the street.

Coming from a place where both conservation and green spaces are a luxury, I found this level of urban planning to be completely foreign. They have expansive old tombs and riverfront real estate, but gave them to the people instead of condotels? Unthinkable.

Trường Tiền Bridge.

Four main bridges link both sides of the river: the historic Trường Tiền, Phú Xuân, Dã Viên, and most recently, the modern and flashy Nguyễn Hoàng. All are connectedly exceptionally well with walking paths so those wishing to face the majesty of the Hương River head-on could do so with ease.

Trường Tiền got its name from a mint directly facing it on the south side.

The Hương River flows through the heart of Huế and flowing along with it are two strips of expansive public spaces that are fully appreciated by local inhabitants, from dawn to dusk. Under the towering canopies of heritage trees, Huế residents stroll leisurely, banter with friends, and take kids out for bike rides.

Morning at local riverside parks.

Huế has the best parks in this country: clean walkways, many public bathrooms and good interconnectivity. Paved paths wide enough for runners, bikers, walkers and children on electric Barbie cars to co-exist? Unheard of in Saigon. As a runner, I felt strangely jealous just walking on these world-class paths.

Time to settle down and relax.

And yet, just as I was busy daydreaming about an alternative existence here, 7am hit and the heat made itself known. The Central Vietnam summer comes with a level of solar power that seems especially powerful. You might be tempted to whip out one of those tiny handheld Chinese electric fans, but they won't help, because even the wind they emit would be searing. Huế during this season is an air-fryer and your fantasies about indulging in its ample green spaces will be quickly cooked like crispy chicken wings.

The south entrance of Trường Tiền Bridge.

Crossing the river on foot is a thrilling experience in itself.

A handful of pedestrians choose to cross the bridge on foot.

Clean and wide walkways.

A morning market session behind Đông Ba Market.

The building in the distance used to be a mint, but is now a bookstore.

Street flower vendors.

On the northen side of the river.

Public bike services are available as part of a trial program.

Thượng Tứ Entrance to the Imperial City.

A public gym with exercise machines.

Phú Xuân Bridge.